Kenya Update (Sept 12/02)

Helllloooooo everyone!!!!

Be warned - this email is LONG (don't read it if you're not fully
prepared!). I'm sending a mass update to everyone I can think of (in
celebration of my *finally* being able to send email!) and then I can
start afresh on an individual basis (providing you write back of course
- but please don't quote my whole email, and for god's sake don't reply
to all!! :). Also keep in mind I don't have my old address book, so I
may be missing a few people. If you see anyone obvious that would like
to receive my news, please send me their address!!

So..... here I am in Nairboi! To be precise, I'm in Lavington, which is
a nice little "safe" neighbourhood in Nairobi. And I do need the quotes
on "safe"... nothing is safe here (oops, forgot Mum's reading this ;).
However, with proper attentiveness and a splash of paranoia, I will be
fine. Every property is fenced, alarmed, and guarded - for example, to
get into my building complex, the guard must open the gate for you. I
have learned to:
- Never ever walk alone once darkness falls, and be freakin' careful in
the daytime.
- Never carry more money (or credit/bank cards) than I need.
- Not carry a bag at all - not even a purse, not even a fanny pak.
Pockets have to suffice (which also means no digital cameras, and no
carrying laptops around).
- Lock my doors, including bedroom door, when I sleep or leave the apt.
- Say hi to most everyone I see on the "road" (again the quotes, it's
really a dust-track :) and try my best to appear local (and friendly!)

Some of these rules are rather difficult to adhere to considering I
don't have a car and the public transportation system is laughable (if a
van goes whizzing by and beeps, it's a "matatu" - if you look
interested, it'll pick you up, and you pay 20 cents to get on - but it's
packed, has no route or schedule, and has an abominable safety record).
Luckily, because of safety and horrendous drivers, my work has a driver
that will take me where I need to go (within reason - he's not really my
personal chauffeur!). Also thankfully, it only takes 15 minutes to walk
to work - and at 8am, it's a beautifully sunny & warm saunter to the
office. I haven't walked home yet - everyone knows the safety issues so
I can get a ride whenever I need.

Now that I've gone on about the bad stuff, I'll let you know why I'm so
happy to be here!!

I got into Nairobi after 2 days' travel (spent 12 hours in London - went
on the double-decker city tour and the rock'n'roll walking tour - it was
Freddie Mercury's b'day! I saw where Queen/Beatles/Bowie/Zeppelin/etc.
played and recorded!!). Jeniffer (yes, that's the correct spelling,
Mum!) from VSF-B (where I work - veterinaires sans frontieres/ vets
without borders, Belgium) and Pia from CUSO (the Canadian
non-governmental org that sent me here) picked me up and brought me
directly to the office. The office is a bungalow (again with a fence and
guard) with yards, gardens, and a deck - seems pretty makeshift in terms
of furniture, etc. but the people are great (and coffee is served to
you, and lunch is provided!!) Everyone's super friendly, and very
devoted to and concerned with their work (no "island-time" here :).
Steve and Gabrielle are the ones that got me here in the first place -
they used to work for CUSO and had Netcorps interns in Papua New Guinea,
though they're originally from Toronto. Great people (married, kids,
live around the corner from me). I basically work with/report to Steve,
but Gab's last day at VSF was today (she's going to a different NGO).

My job: I'm VSF's "Technical Advisor," and it turns out I'll be doing a
lot more than helpdesk stuff (whew!). I'm known as a project manager in
the hierarchy, and have a dotted line to the top (Sally, an Australian,
who's "Head of Mission"). I will be training Jeniffer (currently the
secretary but very tech-capable!) on windows/hardware stuff in the
afternoons for the first couple of months - basically I'll get to know
the way the network functions by hands-on fixing day-to-day issues,
while at the same time grooming my replacement. Mornings I'll
concentrate more on systems analysis and information flows - they have
no databases or proper software, so it's essentially forcing MS products
to do the job. Of course I'll also look into improving net access -
currently there's one PC with a 28.8 modem that typically connects at
9.6 (if at all) - you can see my email frustration! So I'll be doing a
lot of technical evaluations, recommendations, reports, etc. - basically
consultant work. Finally, I will be training end users on efficient use
of their computer resources - most have a basic-to-good knowledge of
their systems, plus an interest in learning more, so that makes it much
easier! Besides the Nairobi office, I'll be going to Lodwar and Loki,
both in Turkana country (ie. the bush) - in a UN base camp. This is part
of VSF's field work - but the main site is Southern Sudan, which I'm not
allowed to go to due to its war-zone status (whew!). Last but not least,
I will be helping other VSFs - the Swiss and German offices. All this is
6 months... yah right! They've already asked if I can extend - so you
never know, I might stay on - in a salaried capacity!! (parents:
consider that your pre-warning ;)

My apt: I'm in Ratna Fitness Club, which is a gym open to the public,
with pool, sauna, all the good stuff. There are four blocks of
apartments as well - I'm in Block B, apt 8. Lots of expats live here, as
well as Kenyans, and I was pleasantly surprised by the size,
cleanliness, and facilities - no roughing it here, it's a great
apartment! (sending pictures will be my next big task - next week, I
promise :). I did have to buy *everything* for the place - sheets,
towels, dishes, pots, cleaners, cutlery.. I mean everything! CUSO gave
me C$200 to help out, thankfully, but it was pretty stressful trying to
get rides, etc. to do that much shopping. I have a couple of handmade
African lamps on order from the street stand around the corner
(mmm...lamps :). Luckily, there's also a restaurant at Ratna - which is
also the central meeting place for people living and/or working out
here. It's owned by Ash, an older Indian-Kenyan man who used to have a
safari resort (and will again soon, hopefully!). He's an excellent host,
and has turned out to be an invaluable "native" resource for me - he's
down as my person-to-contact in my personnel file at work (will give you
his number, M&D).

My fun: Of course, I've also met the party people - yay!! The restaurant
crowd includes Space, Adul, Mike, Mohamed, Nemo, Anu, Hussad, and a few
others whose names I can't pronounce much less write! They took me to
Carnivore last night - Wednesday nights are rock nights, and - surprise,
I heard mostly Canadian music!!! Lots of expats (btw, by this I mean
people not from here!).. and this place is amazing! Gigantically huge
complex, half of it outside, with lots of different bars, dancefloors,
play areas (yes, they even have swings!!). Besides being a nightclub,
it's a restaurant specializing in meat (hence the name Carnivore)
serving all kinds of weird game - stuff I don't want to imagine but will
probably try next time! I trusted these guys & girls to take me with
them, and I wasn't disappointed - I think they'll turn out to be my
crowd. Mohamed is an Egyptian diplomat who's my next door neighbour -
he's been here a month and is kinda freaked out, so needs a friend - I
imagine we'll become good buddies. Plus he's getting a car in 3 weeks
(hehe.. sinister laugh :). And Sonja, you'd love Space.. what a
character! He lives up to his nick - a free-spirited partier with an
odd, happy view of life - he's my Kenyan ambassador :) Nemo is Anu's
girlfriend, and what a party chick - and her sister Layla is even more
insane! (she'd fit right in with Tara :) Hopefully we'll become buds as
well - I'm off to a good start anyways!! Friday nights are Pavement
nights, the other club, more dance/techno from what I hear, then
Saturday is again Carnivore. Apparently these are the only two clubs
worth mentioning in Nairobi because I haven't heard about any others!
However, this Saturday I've been invited to a goat party... hmmm... hey,
I'll try anything once! I hope it goes well with beer.

Other social stuff: I will be meeting Pamela from CUSO on Saturday -
she's going to take me around Nairobi though she's very pregnant so no
safaris :) Hopefully I'll get to the National Park (wildlife!) and
Museum (history of man! it began here!) soon - that's what I'm really
interested in. I'm also going to hook up with the Canadian Club - some
sort of expats-anonymous meeting, and I want to join the climbing club
(Mount Kilamanjaro here I come!). I also have to get Ruth's bag to her
parents - probably this weekend Ruth!!

My impressions of Nairobi: So far, I've been pretty sheltered in my
little work/home area, but I have a feeling this is going to be a good
year! It's dusty and hot (though not boiling), with clear blue skies,
and little fires burn all over the place - constantly the smell of
smoke. The sun rises and sets around 6:30, am and pm - so close to the
equator, the day and night are pretty much equal. It's quiet at night
except for the occasional african drum beat in the distance, gates
clanging, dogs barking, and roosters starting to crow at 4am. I'm not in
the city centre (which is a good thing in terms of safety and
cleanliness - not that I've been there yet!!) so I have a great little
neighbourhood feel... And I hear that sometimes the Masai bring their
cattle into the city to graze on the lawns! Have to see the Masai. In
any case, I'm not well-versed enough about Kenya to offer an opinion, so
my cutting analyses will have to wait (MikeT, I'm working on your
question!).

btw, about Egypt - Mohamed, the Egyptian diplomat, used to be a tour
guide, and will not let me and my friends tour Egypt without him!! He
says it's *very* cheap to be there - like US$100 for TWO WEEKS! So pass
the word, save up the damned airfare, plan a trip, and get yer asses
over here next May/June or something! For anyone else that wants to come
to Nairobi (hint to Renee/Dave!!), I have an available couch, lots of
space, and I bet Mohamed would lend his 2nd bedroom out if need be!!!

I can be reached through the following means:

Snail Mail:
VSF-Belgium
Attn: Johanna Voerman
PO Box 13986-00800
Nairobi, Kenya

YOU GOT TO THE BOTTOM! THANKS FOR READING! Write back if you want any
more updates - I swear, I won't sent a gigantically huge mail like this
again.. well, probably not anyways ;) For everyone that's sent me mail
recently, I have read it - consider this your reply! I'll be more
regularly emailable from now on :) Dayna, I still have your letter on my
to-do - I will get it to you in the next week.

btw, didn't the cottage party rock?!! thanks to all who were there, and
we missed those who weren't. Pictures to come forthwith.

Miss everyone... keep in touch...
xox,
johanna

 

Copyright Johanna Voerman Khisa, 2002-03. Reprinting or reposting without permission is prohibited.